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Recently bought 1980 Hammond Challenger with 260 Mercruiser. Lots of unknowns obviously... Supposedly engine was "re-built" just before prior owner bought it a year and half agone.... and he only added maybe 5 hours to the xv on the re-build. With no substantiating paperwork on the re-build, I take to accept that with a grain of table salt. just I do know the disty was converted to electronic from points just before I got it. Starts cold and stays in the 600 range on muffs sitting in driveway. Originally would stall badly when putting in and out of gear and idle nether load was very low... maybe three-400. Set mixture by ear (which I am sure is not perfect... can't seem to find where I would hook up a vacuum guess to practise it better) at nigh 3.25 - 3.5 turns on either side. Set idle in the water, engine warmed up, in forward with no extra throttle... to 650-700 according to dash tach. But when pulling into neutral, idles soars to double that corporeality at 1300...... No idea where to start chasing this. Apparently no vacuum advance to check, merely not existence a mechanic, I am not really versed enough to know near checking disty springs if that would affect vacuum perhaps... and I have no experience in checking timing/dwell etc. if that is an area I need to explore. Pre-buy check past local marina showed cold engine compression around 125 - 130 on all cylinders - engine cold, and they said plugs looked good. Take nonetheless to shoot starting fluid effectually manifold to bank check for vacuum leaks... Engine seems to run fine otherwise. Polish acceleration and tops out around 4400-4500 and volition happily stay at that. Turns a thru-hub, cleaver style 23 pitch, near 14.5 dia from what I measure.

Still have somewhat if a problem with engine dying when docking or coming up to trailer at end of 24-hour interval. during shifting it conks out occasionally. I am sure the cables are worn, equally there is play in throttle later putting into gear. Checked distance on leg-shift cable and it measures half dozen" on the olfactory organ... and just terminal night played with shift interrupt switch in driveway. Don't think it was really bumping every bit it should going dorsum to neutral, but then again, if it weren't, I don't think it would accept come up out of gear...? And as I sympathise information technology, if it were the neutral condom switch in the ancient panel-mount control box, that would just affect starting....?

Then, two issues in question... the huge disparity in idling and what causes I might check myself with limited mechanical background.... and too diagnosing the occasional dying while shifting.

I did put in a fresh fuel /water separator in it and cleaned the filter at the carb, which was actually quite clean. Have too added some seafoam to fresh, premium gas, and I replaced short vacuum hose from carb to choke.

Any help from you guys would be immensely appreciated.

Attachment 372280

The stalling going in and out of gear sounds similar a sticking transom shift cablevision time to replace it. Carb could be issue with the carb. JMO

Dave

Quote Originally Posted by Dave Stiff View Post

The stalling going in and out of gear sounds like a sticking transom shift cable time to replace it. Carb could exist result with the carb. JMO

Dave

I appreciate the quick reply. Any way to diagnose the gluey cable prior to tackling a replacement? Could probably use it, but being tax fourth dimension, trying to minimize whatsoever throwing parts at it without a solid diagnosis... although I would similar to supervene upon a LOT of things in due tome. Really, all cables and the command box for starters.

Become some one to shift while yous watch the shift interupter, probably find it is hanging up. You lot will need some special tools to change information technology your self. Task best done by the experienced.

Dave

concord with the cable or cables on their way out
typically the cable for the bulldoze would go kickoff , 1980 most likely ( likewise a good fourth dimension to do all bellows )
it is possible to milk it for awhile by adjusting the shift interrupter switch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xDXZv1yHQo
the all-time fashion to suit this is to have pressure on the prop (boat in water)

idle problem I would lean to a carb rebuild very typical

^^^THAT....plus don't rule out a vacuum leak.....It's JUST a small-scale block chebby!!!!

put a timing low-cal on it to come across if the timing is changing when going in and out of gear

Have you fired information technology up and take a can of carb cleaner and squirt it around the carb, intake, hose ends, etc to see if it changes the idle. That is one of the simplest means to find a vacuum leak and quick.

When shifting into neutral and it idles way high, Have you lot pushed the neutral button on the throttle/shifter in frontwards and opposite with push button pressed. It could be sticky in there with old grease and thats a pain in the donkey to piece of work on as well. I would try this just to verify if something is loose in there. Like a loose postal service that the throttle cablevision attaches to or the thin plastic bushing that goes between the post and cable. Thats plenty to make it idle high coming out of gear to neutral.

Just disconnect the cable at the carb, make sure y'all have the throttle on the idle finish and shift.

Dave

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll check for vacuum leaks. Going to bank check timing as well. Seems that if too retarded it would cause mixture screws to be less effective and idle high. Ultimately will replace controls and rebuild carb just because... But i step at a time, especially with tax human knocking on the door. What is interesting to notation on the idle issue, it is consistent. And I tin dial downwardly the idle speed screw, just information technology goes much lower under load. Something is consistently affecting it. Shift interrupt was not quite going in all the way and completing connection, and so worked on arm til it just touched plenty to complete circuit (used multi tester to verify). That might assist a bit, only will not business relationship for huge divergence in idle adjustment. Must be some reason for needing so much idle aligning to get rpm' under load.

If the carb is not working properly and y'all have the throttle plates open to the point the transfer circuit is pulling vacuume it tin can crusade that. Vacuum leak or high overlap cam will likewise cause it. When you adjust idle speed make sure you arrange the threaded barrel on the cablevision as well.

Dave

Quote Originally Posted by Dave Potent View Post

If the carb is not working properly and y'all have the throttle plates open to the bespeak the transfer circuit is pulling vacuume it can cause that. Vacuum leak or high overlap cam volition too cause information technology. When you lot suit idle speed make sure yous adjust the threaded barrel on the cablevision as well.

Dave

O.One thousand., some slap-up ideas and input here. Had a feeling you guys would exist a big assist. Crappy atmospheric condition today merely will be working through all these ideas as best i tin and volition advise on what I detect. Thanks very much for everyone's time and help on this.

- Doug

Quote Originally Posted by Krazymaan View Post

Have you fired it up and take a can of carb cleaner and squirt information technology around the carb, intake, hose ends, etc to see if it changes the idle. That is one of the simplest ways to find a vacuum leak and quick.

Well, shot some carb cleaner all around the manifold and carb base of operations plate and hoses.... no alter. Thinking it may exist internal... or maybe choke adjustment? Choke on this thing baffles me. Got Cliff Ruggles book today, only guess it is more geared towards a general understanding and re-building, rather than trouble shooting and tuning. Will likely transport information technology off to him for his magic. Later on looking in the book, WAYYYY too much for me to get involved with. Sure would like to empathize what is failing though... hate when I can't grasp or diagnose something.

Thanks for the suggestion; at least I experience a bit more confident there is no vacuum issue effectually the manifold or carb. Looked at online manual and setting asphyxiate coil rod and vacuum intermission choke lever... but not really getting it. Back to the drawing board...

If ya lived closer, I'd allow you utilize my UltraSonic Cleaning tank, those carbs would come out similar N.O.S.

What Is the Button on the Gear Shift Mercruiser 260 UPDATED

What Is the Button on the Gear Shift Mercruiser 260

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Ideas on Mercruiser 260, 1980 - Good idle under load, high in neutral, and shift prob

Thank you

Thanks again

Doesn't seem to be vacuum....

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